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101knots.com
Climbing Knots 101
Knots and climbing go together like no other. While we do outline some basic knots to know and situations below, please practice and become familiar with these knots before using them. Knots in climbing are a detail oriented skill that one should be solid on before utilizing outdoors. With that quick warning out of the way read on for 8 essential knots to know and when to use them.
Figure Eight
The most notable, and probably the first you will ever learn, is the figure eight knot. You can use this knot in so many different situations from tying in to securing the rope back to you while cleaning a route. The list goes on, and the sooner you get this one down, the better.
Bowline Knot
This is another knot that is super helpful especially when venturing into multi-pitch climbing. Similar to a figure eight, a bowline can be used to tie in, but is most commonly used when tying a rope around a tree for a natural anchor. While these knots are unlikely to come undone while loaded, there is a possibility for them to shake loose while unloaded; so,
always use a stopper knot in addition to back it up. Remember, redundancy is key.
Munter Mule Overhand
This is great for a variety of situations when alpine or big wall climbing. This knot can be used to escape a belay, or in rescue situations. It is primarily used to help unload a rope when needed because the knot fixes the load strand of the rope. Note that the Munter hitch is just the first part of this duo. Backing it up with an overhand knot is key to securing it.
Clove Hitch
The clove hitch is widely used for quickly affixing your rope to an anchor or carabiner. It is easily adjustable without untying and tightens under load.
Prusik Knot
A prusik knot is a sliding knot of sorts that wraps around a rope. This is great for either ascending a fixed line, or while repelling to help control the descent. The Prusik, in its original form, is versatile because it is useful going up and down. There are a few variations that we won’t touch on here that might suit a climber better if they are heading in one direction only.
As always, stay safe out there, and if there are any knots you love to use that we didn't mention here, hit us up.
Finola McDonald thinks bios are really hard but here is her best go: Finola is a runner, a writer, a climber, snack enthusiast, cat mom, and city lifer turned nature lover who loves getting people outside. She is a firm believer that time in Earth’s wild spaces is time best spent and we need it more than ever. She hopes by sharing her passion for our planet and outdoor recreation, she can convince others of the same. In her free time, you can find her touching cool rocks, running around SLC and the Wasatch, and trying her hardest to leave this earth better than when she entered it.
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