Trip Report: Cathedral Valley Bikepacking Route
As beginner to moderately experienced bikepackers, my friends and I sought an adventure in the desert that would be a healthy mix of pleasure and challenge. There’s certainly no lack of routes in the diverse state of Utah, but our major priority was finding a true backcountry experience that our rigid fork gravel bikes were capable of.
I reached out to a Facebook group called “Utah Gravel Grinders”, and we were pointed in the direction of the Cathedral Valley loop in Capitol Reef National Park. I stumbled on more information on this route through Bikepacking.com, and this helped solidify it as the perfect destination for us to explore.
We chose to make this voyage in early November of 2023. I consider fall and spring to be the best times for this ride as the summers are hot with limited shade, and the winter nights can be brutally cold with the campsite being above 7,000 ft in elevation. In terms of gear, my fellow lads and I were pedaling on gravel bikes with rigid forks. The trip was very pleasurable, but suspension would have made pushing through washboards and deep sand much, much easier. Be prepared to hike your bike frequently, as deep sand pits can appear often (some pits being longer than others). This route is encouraged for beginner and experienced bikepackers as long as you’re okay with hopping on and off the bike. Do not let this deter you, as there are still so many miles of prime gravel to rip without having to dismantle the saddle. There is only one spot to draw water, and it’s less than 10 miles into the trip. With that being said, plan to stash water near Cathedral Valley Campground, or carry PLENTY of water! We each had about 9 liters attached to our bikes and it was sufficient with appropriate budgeting. The coordinates 38.33719, -111.02676 mark the beginning and the end of the loop. This is BLM land right outside Caineville, UT. You’re welcome to bike counter-clockwise; however, we decided to approach it clockwise since it’s the direction most commonly traveled. Choosing clockwise also makes the first day about 40 miles long with about 2,500 ft of elevation gain. The second day is the “victory lap” with about 35 miles and 2,500 ft of downhill.
Day One Our trip began with a highway warmup, shortly followed by a mild river crossing (depending on the time of year). Don’t be scared to get your feet wet by rolling up your pant legs and walking your bike across the stream. You’ll have plenty of time to dry off, trust me!
Following the river crossing, you’ll find the landscape quickly develops into Mars-like rocks, also known as the Bentonite Hills. I emphasize the word “hills” because the stunning overlook of these rocks is rewarded to you after a very steep but short-lived collection of hills.
After breaking at the top of the Mars rocks you pedal further into the loop. The scene fades out of hills and into a bearing desert that fills the air with the feeling of solitude. The sun can be ruthless here, so consider some shade and water in one of the few washes branching off the road. You’ll eventually come across this epic, rustic, farm truck that has been abandoned for many years. Don’t forget to snap a couple photos with it, but don’t get too far behind schedule because the consistent, subtle uphill for the rest of the day is going to require a fair amount of time and energy to complete... especially if you choose to make the short detour to see the Jailhouse Rock overlook!
As you climb towards the campground, you’ll begin to notice yourself surrounded by cliffs and distant overlooks. We found ourselves crawling at a slow speed to the campground right as the sun finished setting. Our legs may have been quivering, but the view from our sleeping bags of the shooting stars seemed to bring the sort of peace that we needed.
Day Two Because the campsite is at the highest elevation on the entire route, the views were astronomical. Make sure to wake up with the sun and warm yourself up with a nice cup of joe (if you’re into that kinda thing). Knowing the rest of the trip is mostly downhill brought a lot of joy to our squad. The second day begins with a fairly steep and chunky descent into the cathedral valley you were once overlooking. Don’t be scared to take it slow, but also savor the moment because it’s not long before you plunge into the sandy pits in the valley that I mentioned earlier.
The first major attraction you encounter will be the Gypsum Sinkhole. It only adds a mile to your trip, and it’s well worth the visit to this geological wonder. The cathedral walls surrounding the sinkhole leave your mind wondering in awe. This also makes for a great break and snack spot.
The next set of attractions on the trip are Glass Mountain, Temple of the Sun, and Temple of the Moon. This 2-mile-long detour is also well worth the stop. The views of the Temples nearby are astonishing.
For the final part of the trip, you continue the relieving descent into the Caineville wash area that gives off a reminiscence of the dusty red rocks of the bentonite hills. It’s not long before you find yourself back at the BLM land you started at. Make sure to stop by Hanksville at the unique “Hollow Mountain” gas station to celebrate with snacks for your drive back home. The snacks aren’t crazier than any other gas station, but the fact it’s built into the side of a rock makes the experience worthwhile.
It should be noted that I am not the developer of this route. This loop is common for backcountry vehicles, but most recently became publicly developed as a bike route as well. Before riding, I gathered my research from Bikepacking.com and through the “Utah Gravel Grinders” Facebook group page. I am writing this blog for two reasons: to share my experience on the route as a beginner-moderate bike packer, and to inspire others to send it on one the best bikepacking weekend warrior experiences to be had in the state of Utah. The gpx file I uploaded is one that I created personally on Gaia; however, I created it as a mirror from the one I found on Bikepacking.com.