ATC Vs. GriGri: Which to Choose and Why
There’s no doubt you’ve heard many debacles over belay devices between climbers. And, while there are many ways to belay and more devices then we will touch on here, we’ll be covering the two most common ways you’ve probably encountered: The Grigri and the ATC.
It should be said that both the ATC and the GriGri can be used in sport, top rope, and trad climbing. However, no device will ever make up for poor belay technique. No assistance some of these devices will offer can ever protect a climber from a sloppy belayer.
Once learned, the GriGri is quite easy to manage and, in the case of a true emergency, it has an assisted/automatic brake function. These devices have thus become a standard in many gyms across the world; at the crag, I’ve even heard phrases like “I won’t let them belay if they’re not using a GriGri.” While it may seem like an extreme point of view, there is an undeniable safety element to this device, and I don’t blame others for making it a preference. This device also aids in lowering climbers off a route with more control and does give the belayer a bit of a break.
Note: The GriGri is meant to be threaded in one direction, unlike traditional tube-style devices like the ATC. If you run the rope the wrong way, the device will not function properly. Although there is a helpful diagram on the side, it's best to remember the three C's (keep the Climber Closest to the Carabiner). Always do a safety check and give a tug on the climbers side of the rope to ensure that everything is loaded correctly and working properly.
Image Credit: Climbinghouse.com
The ATC proves superior over the GriGri when rappelling (use ATC Guide) or when using two ropes on alpine/multi-pitch objectives. But, bear in mind this is a
manual device. This means there is no help in braking or lowering and the control really depends on you as the belayer. The biggest con here is belayer fatigue, but when used properly, the ATC can save weight and really is a fine option especially if you are starting out indoors. The price difference between the two is ~$75, too, making the ATC more beginner friendly from a price standpoint.
For a long time as a new climber, I was team GriGri until the bitter end; as soon as I was able to buy one, it felt as though there was no turning back. Now that I’ve been in a variety of climbing situations and seen how each device can be of great aid, I simply can’t rule out one or the other. All this said, it is of immense value to be comfortable with both devices. If you’re a die-hard for one or the other, and plan on taking your climbing to the next level, you’ll eventually have to use both if not acquire them, so you might as well start getting used to it now.
Is there a belay device that you prefer? We hope this helps clear up the debate between the two and gives you a better understanding of them! Until next time: have fun, be safe, and we’ll see you outside!
Finola McDonald thinks bios are really hard but here is her best go: Finola is a runner, a writer, a climber, snack enthusiast, cat mom, and city lifer turned nature lover who loves getting people outside. She is a firm believer that time in Earth’s wild spaces is time best spent and we need it more than ever. She hopes by sharing her passion for our planet and outdoor recreation, she can convince others of the same. In her free time, you can find her touching cool rocks, running around SLC and the Wasatch, and trying her hardest to leave this earth better than when she entered it.
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