How to Whip on the Sharp End of the Rope: An Unguaranteed, Imperfect, 3-step program that Definitely Works for Scared Wittle Climbers Like Me

How to Whip on the Sharp End of the Rope: An Unguaranteed, Imperfect, 3-step Program that Definitely Works for Scared Wittle Climbers Like Me

The name of the sport climb is As the Crows Fly and it goes at 11b (I mean it goes for some people but not for me) in Saint George, UT. Some folks will give it three stars, but I give it a hundred stars (maybe even a hundred and one) for being the climb that changed everything for me and my mental head game. It’s pretty embarrassing when you black out in fear on a climb and scream (at least they tell me I screamed). I used to think it was embarrassing, anyway. In April 2019, what I really learned was how powerful fear can be. I learned to respect it and not take it for granted. After sitting the rest of the day out, and crying, you’d maybe think that someone who was that scared of falling when climbing would give up the sport entirely. But, I didn’t because I got some sage advice from my then climbing partner that day that changed everything… slowly… but it was the start. These days, I shamelessly whip on everyone else’s ropes all the time and it’s not scary anymore. It’s pure fun for the most part. I wouldn’t claim that I never get scared anymore, but, I’d say most of the time I’m more scared of not having enough snacks at the crag. So, what was this sage advice from a wild-haired, irrevocably silly-goose climbing partner that moved to the ye olde New River Gorge? On the phone that day of the incident, he point-blank asked me why I was thinking about falling so much? Shane, father of the famous Ripley the dog, without hesitation or sympathy in his voice, told me I was there to climb, not to fall. He told me to stop thinking about the falling and just keep my mind on the matter at hand: Where was the next hold? What was the next move? What was the beta? Maybe I called him to look for sympathy, a shoulder to cry on, or some other emotional crutch but instead, he gave me what I needed… the logic to start learning how to enjoy climbing again. So, step 1 out of my 3-step Program (soon to be patented and copyrighted) on how to enjoy climbing again and not be afraid of falling:

STEP 1: FOCUS ON THE NEXT MOVE (I.E. Stop Thinking About the Fall Potentials)

However, as my friend Will likes to say, the fear of falling is very natural and very important for survival. It’s almost as important as having extra bananas on hand before your red burn attempts. So, the 3 step program does not stop there. You have to have a positive correlation associated with falling and that takes some serious retraining of your brain. This brings me to:

STEP 2: NEVER FALL WHEN YOU’RE SCARED

Okay, so now you’re saying, “Katie, this is ridiculous. You’re fired. I will not continue reading this article. You cannot make me. What if I’m already super high above the previous clip and freaking out??” Just hold on. Hear me out. Remember, you’re retraining your brain and this is going to be in baby steps. If you only fall when you’re scared, you’re only reinforcing to your brain that climbing and falling is scary. Sure, you could go to the gym and just take whips over and over and over again until you’re more used to it but that’s not what we’re here for. (I should note here that I am not a brain scientist so this is all anecdotal). So, as you go and climb on lead in your natural state, focusing on the moves and not the falls, and then, as you begin to get pumped or foresee a tougher section, take falls below the clip or wherever you do not feel fear. Next, maybe as you’re getting pumped because all you’re doing is focusing on the moves and you know a fall is inevitable… fall at the clip. Repeat until you do not even think about what the fall will be like at the clip. This is where you begin to enjoy falling. This is where you’d rather fall because “ugh, my forearms are SO PUMPED from focusing on the moves that I would rather fall than hold on for one more second.” As you begin to enjoy climbing more, you’ll realize you’re going higher above the clip without even thinking about the fall. Then you go higher than that...and higher, and higher until one day… (in the future, you need to be patient)… you’re super pumped but MAN you WANT that finish jug so bad so you give it your everything and you miss and whooooooosh, you’re falling through the air onto a cushion of cloud because your belayer is excellent. This brings me to:

STEP 3: ONLY FALL WITH BELAYERS YOU TRUST

Look, some people are just learning how to be the best belayer on Earth and always have extra snacks on hand to share with you. Some people are learning how to be the best belayer on Earth and make every fall feel like a sleepy little cloud you’re falling onto. And some people learned how to belay on an ATC and take that break hand a little more seriously. No shade. Come at me. This last step is pretty intuitive and really does not need much explanation. But, I will say, do not be afraid to be picky. You can still top rope or have a super chill leading day where you do not plan on falling with someone newer or someone just newer to you (which you SHOULDN’T BE planning on falling anyway, are you even listening?!) Trust is personal and I cannot tell you how to learn to trust someone. But, it just makes sense that you’ll begin to enjoy climbing when you do not have to think about the fall potentials or how the catch is going to turn out. It just makes sense that enjoying climbing should come from focusing on the moves… and the snacks. After all, we’re in the sport of rock climbing, not rock falling. Ha ha haaaa. Cringe. Obviously, this perfect, completely unflawed 3-Step Program is not a guarantee. All I can say is that it worked for me and I know what it’s like to be so, so, so scared on the sharp end of the rope. If it is something you want to try on for size, and it works out for you, let me know. I’ll be here at Geartrade in Salt Lake City, UT, photographing beautiful and coveted used gear that I can’t wait to take with me to the crags. See you out there at the crags (bring SNACKS, OK?). Love, Katie Hennessey